Sri Racha Tiger Zoo is located just off the main highway (7) which connects Bangkok to the seaside resort of Pattaya and the rest of the East Coast. It is certainly an interesting place to stop for a few hours when on route to or from the airport.
The zoo obviously exhibits tigers, as the name suggests, but also offers an eclectic mix of animals including crocodiles, pigs and elephants. Running at hourly (or sometimes half hourly) intervals are the 4 main shows – the Tiger show, the Crocodile show, the Elephant show and Pig racing. In addition to the main shows there is a smaller selection of animals such as camels, scorpions and rabbits.
Once you enter, you’re free to wander around the enclosures, and take in the shows in whatever order you like as many times as you like. Each show lasts for around 15-20 minutes and a short walk between them means you can get the full experience within a couple of hours.
It might not be until you get to the shows that you realise something is a little different at Sri Racha Tiger Zoo. From western perspectives, Sri Racha is not a zoo – it is more like a circus, or a freak show with a very different way of attracting visitors. While many zoos are turning to natural settings for their exhibits and conservation, Sri Racha most certainly isn’t, and many visitors will leave feeling unsettled at least – it is not a stranger to controversy.
The Crocodile Show
The crocodile show is set in an arena, with a 360 degree ring of seats. In the middle, behind a glass barrier is the crocodile tanks. A tiled island in the middle of a shallow pool. As you walk in, a few crocodiles lie sleepily waiting for their ‘trainers’. Dressed in Muay Thai attire, a male and female trainer emerge and begin to drag the crocodiles into position by their tails, while a 3rd commentator revs the crowd up on a microphone.
The wrestlers make a deal out of dodging the snapping jaws and gradually build up towards the big finale. A more docile crocodile is chosen and put into a trance with jaws open – the trainers then put their arms and ultimately their heads into the crocodiles mouth. At one point the male trainer did a running slide along the floor towards the crocodile’s open jaws, sliding to a stop in time to kiss the crocodile on the nose. Sitting watching it, I was left asking the question – what possesses a man to put his head into a crocodile’s mouth?
For me there are several disturbing aspects to the act. It’s uncomfortable to watch, but also compelling viewing – like watching car races waiting for the crash. Of course the jaws don’t snap shut, and one wonders just how much danger there is involved. The crocodiles appear drugged, although clearly with several ‘performances’ each day, they must be used to the experience. Of course the crocodiles at the zoo are comparatively well fed and looked after by their loving trainers, away from the dangers of the wild and the possibility of poachers. In a way it’s similar to a dog performing with it’s loving owner, but the difference is – this is a crocodile – i.e. a wild animal – not a pet dog. A distinction which wasn’t lost on this spectator.
Tiger Show
Next up, the Tigers… This time it was even more like walking into a circus tent, with a caged circle in front of the stage. A pig ran out to open the show, followed by the ring masters / trainers, who bring in the tigers.
With whips and steel poles, the tigers are ushered to podiums around the ring before performing various tricks, such as jumping through fire hoops, crawling along balancing beams. It was very much a classic circus event and I didn’t get a feel that the tigers were at all happy about performing.
Elephant Show
The elephant show at Sri Racha tiger zoo is similar to Elephant shows elsewhere in Thailand. Elephants and their mahouts perform a variety of different tasks, from the relatively natural to the less natural. Elephants, under the control of their mahouts, have assisted in the logging industry so watching elephants moving logs is relatively to be expected. Playing musical instruments and giving a massage are less likely, but thats on display at Sri Racha Tiger Zoo. Having been to many elephant camps across Thailand, unfortunately the elephant show at Sri Racha was for me disappointing. The animals don’t seem to be happy, perhaps that is a reflection of the rest of the Zoo?
Pig Racing
Adding to the bizarre atmosphere, there are also regular pig races – many times each day the pigs will run down the track while visitors get to “gamble” on which is going to win. Bizarre? Well, not as much as the mixing of animals in the rest of the zoo…
In one section a pig sow lets tiger cubs suckle on her milk, while next door the tiger mother takes care of her piglet replacements? I have one question – why? It’s not that the animals seem to have any problems, they seem happy enough, but Why? There is a similar question when I look at the ducks and crocodiles demonstrating that they don’t eat each other… Why? And why am I compelled to look at it with a vague interest.
A final “highlight” is the scorpion queen who lives with hundreds of scorpions on her body (actually her shirt) and lets you take a photo with her – for a small fee. (The fee isn’t much, but it’s just one of the ‘extras’ that aren’t included in the entrance fee, such as having a photo sitting on a croc!)
Would I go again? Well, I’ve actually been twice now – the first time I left feeling that I probably wouldn’t go again, but the 2nd time it made good sense as a good place to stop for a few hours on route from Rayong to Bangkok. Would I go again? Well, maybe…
